I am building a new Plafit PF1700KSLP chassis and will be using a Proslot PS4000 motor. This is what we use for club racing here. What is the best way of mounting the motor on this chassis?
The motor is quite smaller that the Bison it is designed for, and will be off centre. I hope to get it as close to the center and as low as possible.
One problem is that the motor mounts don't fit. We are waiting for some new ones that could be usable, but I think I will try to make my own.
The other problem is that the rear gear (44 teeth) will interfere with the chassis plate when I put the gear as close to the ball bearing as possible. If I move the gear outside the plate, I also will have to move the motor 4-5mm more off centre.
Another solution is to reduce the size of the gears.
Does anyone have any ideas or pictures of a similar setup?
Except for this the PF1700KSLP seems very fine. The only thing that needs adjustment is the guide holder and of cause the height. Everything else lines up very good. The price is also nice.

Hi there,

well we use the motorholder made by Jürgen Stüdemann aka. Felgendreher. This motorholder lowers the Proslot motor like if you would use a bison with the original delivered holder. The only thing is, that you don't have a second holder to secure the motor from behind!

Concerning the 44 teeth gear. We never had the problem that the gear interfered with the chassis plate. I could be that you'll have to add a 2mm or 3mm spacer between the axel holder and the gear. But that's what we always do (nearly every day) and it works fine. Once you've fides the motor in the holder and the holder is screwed on, you'll find the correct placement for you gear on the read axel.

check the link below. there you'll see pictures from martin bartelmes (developper of the SLP version of the Plafit S24 Chassis) who builds up a chassis with bison motor

SLP Chassis pictures

so what are the negative points on the chassis? kinda curious to know

cheers,
Mike

We use 27.5mm wheels, and that requires about 1mm spacer for 1mm ground clearence. Then I have almost, but not quite the clarence I need for the 44 teeth gear.
What is your wheel diameter?
I think it will be OK to use motor mount in just one end if it has two screews and is stiff enough.
I don't have any negative points on this chassis except the motor mount problem, but that will of cause be the case will any motor that the chassis is not designed for. I like it

Hey there,

well at the Worlds last year we used the SLP-Chassis with the 44 theeth gear, but note that you can't use the original axel holders. You'll have to buy other axel holders from Plafit. They have 4 different kinds. Then you can use the photoetched spacerplates to do fine tuning on the setup an you can reach the 1mm clearance without getting problems. I raced the 27,5mm wheels but I had 1,1mm clearance at the front and 1,3mm clearance at the back.

Little remark: you have to use higher axel holders in order to decrease the clearance! same principle for front and back.

you're right that chassis was developped for the bison motor that is used in the 3 SLP series: SLP, SLP Challenge and SLP Cup.

but for the so called "lady-shave" motors you can already get the motor holder including the counter-holder. Don't think it will fit the Proslot-Motor!

cheers,
mike

Hi Mike,

You are right about the axle holders that come with the kit . . . not tall enough for the 1,0mm clearance specification . . . and even the tallest fronts (7,0mm) and rears (14,3mm) still need to be shimmed. I thought I would speak to Mr. Ono of Plafit when I am at the DPM about adding additional sizes to get us closer to our IMCA spec. You (and others) have probably built a lot more of these SLP chassis than I have . . . what should the front and rear spacers measure?

Mark Campbell
Scale Racing America

p.s. I noticed that the clearance is down to 0,6mm for the F430 sprint races (only) at the 2008 IMCA Worlds. Good thing the track is new . . . and flat!

Hi Guys,
the SLP chassis and the parts were developed for the SLP series as raced here in germany.
The 14,3 rear holders will give you you 1mm clearance with 27mm Wheels the front 7mm blocks will give you 1mm with 24mm wheels - SLP specs. We run 27,5 at Imca/EEC and should have about 0,8mm-1mm meaning that you need shims of about 0,25mm. Shims you need just incase you need to adjust the ride height during the race, plafit has the quick fit shims that can be added or removed without having to take off the rear axle holders ... nice and flexible the fronts.... we run 25,5 mm minimum if you mount the stabilizer under the actual axle/bearing holders, you gain another millimeter...... and do not need shims.....need to play around with the shims or without or just use bigger front tyres....

Fola

Hi.
Can anyone tell me where I can buy this motorholder made by Jürgen Stüdemann aka. Felgendreher. ??

So the "PF1708" does not fit the proslot motor?

K

38 Motorhalter 13D (Fox, Sakatsu F-10, proslot) Aluminium PF1708
39 Motorhalter 16D (Parma) Aluminium PF1708 P
40 Motorhalter 18D (Bison, Hippo) Aluminium PF1708C

Ok. Thanks.

This is what I ended up with. I used a Schoeler Pro Slot motor mount that is slighly modified to be able to lower the motor enought. In the rear end I made a clamp of 1.5mm alu. Now the motor is fixed good in the correct position, low and almost in centre. It also uses two screews both on the motor and to the bottom plate.
Spacers was not a problem. I made my own 1mm rear spacers and used the supplied plastic spacers in the front.
I think this is as good as it's get with a lady shaver motor

I was about to suggest the same. I have used the Schöler option a few times too.
FYI the holder comes in two sizes
LONG

and SHORT


I see you have the long version and that is why you have the Spur gear the wrong
way around. and the problem that the gear , if any bigger , will foul on the bottom
Plate. The short version moves the motor out further and eliminates the problem.
Cool thing about it is that you can choose the motor height your self....
IO now use the "Felgendreher " part but it is not adaptable and costs 3 x the Schöler.

Your Rear clamp is way cool! Well done! I now have a part that is
similar to a motor holder, works well but is way too expensive

But I have noticed that modifying an original takes the same time as it takes to just make one from scratch from an Alu 'L'-profile. Usually on the back I make something like the front, where my opening fits over all four sides over the endbell thingie

Fola, I used this motor holder from Schöler:

http://www.norsk-bilbaneforum.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_18&products_id=216

It is specially made for the Pro Slot motor. This is what we use on our Schöler chassis here in Norway. We got it from a Norwegian web shop, but I do not have the product name for it. Using this I can mount the motor with two screews. You just have to make the holes a bit lower to get the motor all the way down.

2 screw motor mounting... never don that before.... but safe !
Cant find that holder in German Webshops, maybe coz no one runs the ps4000
motor here.....
They should still make a short version ;-)

Hmm Hmmm, this is my FIRST Plafit experience so...

Nevertheless this is what I propose as an alternative to a "wild" motor mounting :

The pinion side is equipped with the Schoëler motor holder (short or long, I have to verify, but I think it's the short one...) with 2, yes Fola read it TWO mounting screws. Next I will try an upgrade with a modified new "Norvegian" Schoëler ProSlot motor holder, always with 2 holes for 2 screws

On the opposite side, I'm using the machined holder supplied in the SLP Plafit kit, but modified and fitted with a piece of carbon as an adapter... pfff 2 screws once more...

You can see how it looks with some pictures on http://picasaweb.google.fr/Philippe.Laudet/TechTips

Comments are welcome,
Kinds regards,

Philippe - Zmachine

be care... Alsdorf, here we come...

Looks good! Nice job with the rear motor mount
You have the short Schöler motor mount. The "Norwegian" 2-screw mount is the long type. Then you will have to turn the rear gear the other way around and will have conflict with the bottom plate.
Of cause you can make new holes in the motor mount closer to the motor and convert it to a short type.
Another option is to change the bottom plate to the thinner version. The stock is 1.5mm, but you have a 1.3mm option. This should give enought clearence for the gear whan you add 0.2mm extra shims.

Hi Guys,

just a question : could somebody from the scandinavian countries bring us some of these 2 holes motor mounts, no way to find it over here at our usual suppliers. I would like to have 3 of them, and will pay for them at the Afsdrol race.

VBR

Raymond

I am not going there, but I can try to get the product name for them so you can order them directly from Germany. You can also try to order some from the web shop of Jostein Vandaas linked above. If the norwegian is hard for you then you can email him here:
http://home.online.no/~vandaas/epost.cfm

Are you going to use them on a Plafit of Schöler chassis? The are a direct fit on Schöler with 44/9 gear, but needs to be modified to fit Plafit. They are also of the "long" type.

Bimmer, thanx for you interesting comments ! I simply ignored that a 1.3mm base was available by Plafit !

Raymond, I have bought such motor holders through Jostein in Oslo.
I will participate to the Liege Gr5 race on Saturday, I will bring one with me if you like...

Kind regards to all of you,
Philippe

For others, the 1.3mm base has the part# PF1701B and you can find it here:
http://www.plafit.de/index.php?uid=C7d482130c905572f6af1b1845ea6a637&go=ALL

I think the difference between the 1700 and 1701 base is that they added some extra mounting holes on the 1701 version. You can also get it in 1.3mm alu, but we should be needing the low weight of the brass base plate.

Here is a good solution.....


Click the pic for more pix...
more info U2U or mail me..

Regards,
Fola (Slotfabrik)

Very nice! Is this the expensive rear holder you were refering too?
Where did you get the heat sink for the motor? Have you done any measurements to see what temperature difference you get? Did you ever have any problems with the motor overheating? I quess lower temperature will increase the life span of the motor anyhow, and reduce the risk for race incidents.

yes it is ..... and the set is very expensive (due to small quantities) , but very nice too !
The heat sink is from Jens... in Germany, have not taken measurements, that is a bit
too Tech-ie for me,

Regards,
Fola

Hello Fola,

Can you inform me where to buy these motor holders?


Kind regards,

Dirk-Jan

They are custom made, a friend made them.....
u2u?
fola

Here is the "Available" Version......


For more pics, click the pic.