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Big Al





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posted on 31-5-2007 at 14:32 Reply With Quote
Ferrari 430 project



Greetz boys,

As has been seen on the IMCA site, next year is looking very exciting, and
challenging for me, and if it all comes off successfully, I'll be seeing you
all quite often, I might as well try and emmigrate at this rate.. Any cool
jobs over there??

In my usual manner, I am starting to try and prepare for this momentus
occasion. That entails building my own Ferrari 430 to use in the GT2 class.
What I have here, is a very second-hand looking 430 which the youngsters
pretty much wrecked, and then my Concourse car, which is the donour I intend
to use.


As I've learnt over the years, the primary donour needs to be 100% correct,
and all detail, holes, vents etc need to be done right on this car. While
there's not much required in addition to the standard Revell Kits I used,
I'd already done the plastic upgrades as per Tamar's help last year,
getting the front and sides extended to look like the racing GT version.
(see this article)

What I'm finished off now with, are the new air vents on the bonnet next to
the lights, and Naca air duct in the bonnet, pretty simple and no problems
there. I'm moulding over the extractor ducts I built in front of the front
wheels, so that detail will be in place as well, and as the boot lid is two
parts, for strength, this is being moulded as one to the body.

Now, my dearest friends, the issues I have are the clear bits. The Windows
and headlight lenses. While I had MANY hours one night in Barca, finishing
off the Aston which some other dude from SA raced!!!, I had lots of time to
see the fabrication on that car with respect to the lexan "flat" windows
etc, and noticed the small, recessed sill, which the lexan was glued to.
The Ferrari however, needs a different route. While the Side windows are one
piece, and can be vac-formed, as can the windscreen and boot windows, they
are not straight, or flat, like the astons were. And the LIGHT lenses are
tough. There's absolutely no space to mold in a small recess which the clear
parts can be glued onto, the lights are already small and narrow enough, so,
guys, how do you go about this..??

While the progress reports on the Lambo are VERY good, there isn't much when
it comes to the lexan-to-body components.. So I'm asking for some help here,
so that I can build a decent 430, and it'll be strong enough for the 4/5
races it'll be used in. Can you try and expand on this process please, and
what will be the RIGHT way to do this.. Do I put the mould into the casting
box WITH the Windows in? Or do I put a piece of plastic on the inside where
the Windows WILL go, thus leaving a recess in the mould?

Looking forward to the finer parts of this process..

Regards

Al
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tamar





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posted on 31-5-2007 at 15:06 Reply With Quote
F430



Hello Al

Yeah it looks like IMCA's FIA GT plans have made the F430 a popular car again.
I'm looking forward to see your Work In Progress reports on the forum.

Concerning the clear Vac formed parts.
For the Barca races we made some copies of the F430 Revell parts. the windows were easy, as they were fitted from the outside on the model kit.
The headlight lenses are indeed trickier, Henri had a lot of problems with achgieving a good and clean fit.
I'll have to look into it to see if we can come up with a better solution.



Also..... keep following the Murcie WIP.
Have been busy with the clear parts, but nothing yet to post....but I will give it more attention.




With kind regards
Tamar
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Big Al





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posted on 31-5-2007 at 15:11 Reply With Quote
Ferrari Dimensions?



Tamar,
Another thing.. Seeing I'm going to try and remould this car, it's also a
little narrow in comparison to the official Specifications.
The online width, which I'm measuring across the rear wheels, is 82.6mm.
This car is at 79.4 mm. So I want to set the width as close as possible, which will also
help the handling I'm sure.
So the only stuff I have is the Tamiya Pbody Putty, stuff which comes in a
tube.. What's the best way to get this width done on the body, so it's the
same on both sides.. ??

Al
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tamar





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posted on 31-5-2007 at 16:04 Reply With Quote
Re: F430 Dimensions



Hello Boet

About the dimensions, those are for the bodywork, so measure the body and not the rear axle.
If measured over the rear wheelarches the Revell kit is 81.0 mm which is only 1.6 mm off.

As you are going to make a new master you might want to check the Fujimi kit, which I believe it is a bit wider.
Although with the new weight calculation it shouldn't make that much of a difference, and don't forget.....
...for the IMCA FIA GT the F430 is racing in GT2 agianst the Porsche 911 GT# RSR and even with the widest type 997 wheelarches this car is only 81.45 mm wide.

[Body mods]
When modifying a body I use a combination of sheet plastic, milliput (a 2 component modelling putty) and spray primer/ filler. For straight, angular an/or thin shapes plastic sheet's the best solution, if I need to make curves or thick complex shapes I use milliput.

http://www.netmerchants.co.uk/shopimages/products/extras/Milliput_boxes.jpg
Really great stuff, once mixed it is like clay. Its substance is hard enough to model it with a spatula, you can cut it with a sharp knife, and as it is water based, you can smoothen it with wetted tools so you get a finish that hardly needs any sanding. Which is advisable because once its dry it becomes rock hard. The downside is you need to be patient...it dries very slowly (6 hrs).

Symmetry
This is on of the most difficult aspects of body modifications: getting the left and right sides of a body to match.
In your case you want to keep the original shape of the wheelarches, but need an extra 0,8 mm on both sides.
The problem witrh the 430 body is that it is a combination of straight and curved surfaces.
Most tricky part is the front wheelarch, but you'll have to modify most of the car to keepm the proper proportions.
I would not do it (specially if the Fujimi turns out to be wider).

But if you insist on doing this....
I would glue small strips of 0.8-1mm sheet around all the body panels ( to make sure that you maintain symmetry)
Smoothen out the shapes to the original panels with milliput.
If you apply this correctly (like using a wetted rubber filler pad) you can make the shapes almost perfect.
Then clean up the edges with some 300- 500grit emmery paper.
Finish it of with several coats of Spray primer/ filller (Like Tamiya's Grey Body Primer) sanding the shapes with 1000grit paper between each coat.
To keep the panel lines edges clean it is best to pray the primer on each panel seperately (masking of the other panels)

You can see how I did something like this in the next Murcie post.

Good luck
Tamar
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Big Al





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posted on 2-6-2007 at 16:05 Reply With Quote


Hey T,
well, against your suggestions, I'm in the process of building a new, and better 430 GT.


http://www.slotcars.co.za/eec/nosework.jpg

Here you can see the new round airvents fitted next to the headlights.. There are plastic tubes cut and glued in, then hours of sanding and putty and primer to get the finished, smooth look. I'm just finishing the Naca duct on the bonnet now, and you can also see the extractor fins on the side.
http://www.slotcars.co.za/eec/rear.jpg

The rear has been smoothed over, and more "FIA GT" now from the road going body. It also measures across the rear 82.5 mm's.

More to follow shortly.

Regards
Al
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tamar





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posted on 2-6-2007 at 16:47 Reply With Quote
Good start is half the race



Hello Boet

Looking good....nice to see you've made a good start.
About the Master, I would not add the fins in front of the frontwheels.
These thin parts will be hard to laminate and due to their thinness prone to airbubbles.
Better is to have the general shape of the grill and add the fins later




With kind regards
Tamar
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Big Al





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posted on 3-6-2007 at 13:46 Reply With Quote


:cry:
I'll try one and see what happens.. I know putting the fins in for the original was an absolute pain in the ass dude..

So I'll see. If it fails, easy to grind them flat, and add on later on you know..

Chow

Al
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Amoslot-Michael





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posted on 4-6-2007 at 10:53 Reply With Quote


Hey Tamar

can you give me please the Decals File in Illustrator or anything else from the "GRUPPE M F430". I want to bulid a F430 too and i like this outfit.

Thank you very much


With kind regards

Michael




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marco





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posted on 4-6-2007 at 20:41 Reply With Quote


Hi Al,

Despite the electronics, you are so far away I feel as though I should be speaking extra loud. Hey, I am also signed on with one of the 430s for the EEC rounds at Euregio and Milano. For a Canadian to go to Oslo in February . . . is a little like 'taking coals to Newcastle' as they say. Actually I am away in February so I had to pass. Back to the 430. Have you not made a mold already for the lexan windows and interior on this car? All the best.

Marco
www.scaleracing.ca
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tamar





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posted on 5-6-2007 at 03:14 Reply With Quote
F430 Lexan parts



Hello Marc

We've got masters for the lexan windows and interior, Al has a master for the engine detail




With kind regards
Tamar
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Big Al





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posted on 5-6-2007 at 10:43 Reply With Quote


Hello All,

I'm sure I'll get there, but at the mo, I don't have the Masters for the Interior, but it'll be done soon.
As I'm trying to create a new Body, I'm also changing how the Windows and Lights fit to the Body, so the lexan Windows don't have to fit from inside out, so to speak, but will attache to a "sill" all the way round the various windows.. But I'm still a way away from this part of the job.

Regards

Al
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tamar





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posted on 6-6-2007 at 01:34 Reply With Quote
F430 info



Hey Boet

There;s an nice interview on http://www.dailysportscar.com/ on the Risi F430
"Looking Into A GT2 Ferrari 430
With Risi’s Rick Mayer"

Currently the Dailysportscar site is free if you log iin under free username (dscfreebie) and password (britcarnec)




With kind regards
Tamar
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Big Al





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posted on 6-6-2007 at 13:50 Reply With Quote


Thanks dude, I'll check for it,
BUT dang it's such a SLOOOOOWWWWW website!!!!

(sleep)

Getting Carbon today, and a new Resin with 8 minute potlife.. Will whip these bodies out in a flash...

More to follow, and some pics..

regards

Al
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Big Al





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posted on 6-6-2007 at 17:07 Reply With Quote


:upset:

Website keeps saying I've been bumped off.. Too bad..

Al
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tamar





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posted on 7-6-2007 at 00:04 Reply With Quote
Transcript of the Rick Mayer interview on DSC



Hello Boet

sorry, I checked and apperently not all articles are avialable via the free user account (I've got a suscription 35€ p/year) And the site is frikkin fast when I browse it so.........
But I've copy/pasted it for you here so you can still get this info (sorry DSC) with source reference off course ...
cause DSC...your the best1 :holy:holy:holy:holy:holy:holy:holy:holy:holy:holy

Original text and publication of Dailysportscar.com

Looking Into A GT2 Ferrari 430
With Risi’s Rick Mayer


The idea was a simple one, and one that we hadn’t explored before: would Risi’s Rick Mayer talk us through some/most of the features of the Risi Ferrari 430 – that is, would he explain what it is that makes the Ferrari the winning car that it is. We were interested in the details – so would Rick have the time, on the Saturday of the Le Mans test weekend, to show the Editor round the #97 car? Yes, he would. It was fascinating.

http://www.slotracinglemans.com/images/liveries/f430_risi9901.jpg
Starting at the back then…


“The fender (wheelarch) liners are kevlar, not carbon. Carbon is too brittle, it would shatter too easily. You can’t break Kevlar: it would survive the worst possible puncture – and it’s lighter than carbon. However, you do need special scissors to cut the cloth and it doesn’t trim easily in the cured state.

“The guys are just putting the floor on, and as you know. we can’t run an actual diffuser in GT2. Our part is considered to be an inclined, flat plane, with no end plates. In GT1, you’ll have noticed the Corvette’s diffuser, with end plates and strakes.”

Moving forward, down the r/hand side of the 430, we arrived at the position lights, a new addition for Le Mans – but not for Risi Competizione. Except that….

“They’re different at Le Mans to the ALMS system. The brightness of the lights can be adjusted by the officials, up in their control tower, depending on whether it’s full daylight, dawn or dusk, or full night running. Unfortunately, we only received the parts when we arrived here on Wednesday, so there was one extra job for the crew, before scrutineering.
http://www.slotracinglemans.com/images/liveries/f430_risi9902.jpg
“The doors are very light (carbon fibre), and compared to the stock, street car, the hinges are machined for lightness, and we’ve got pit pins fitted – so that we can quickly remove the doors at a pit stop.. if for example it makes working on the car quicker and easier (so more of the crew can get at the inside of the car, for example).

“The engine restrictors are there, in the wing ducts (above each rear wheel), and you do get a little bit of ram effect there, except that the mirrors are in the way of the air flow. The ducts take in cooling air too.

http://www.slotracinglemans.com/images/liveries/f430_risi9903.jpg
“We’ve got the tear-offs covering the windshield: we usually fit three or four. They’re ideal if, say, your driver ends up with a screen covered in oil. It’s actually quite a skilled job to fit the tear-offs so there are no air bubbles, which you don’t want in the driver’s line of sight, especially with three or four layers of tear-offs.



“The windshield is glued in, so it’s not a quick job to change it. It adds stiffness to the car, although not as much as on the 360. The 430 has a better rollcage (than the 360) – although being steel, it has to be bolted to the chassis, which is aluminum(ium).



“The ‘screen is a glass item, just like on the street car, and it’s heated and has a regular de-mist system, as on the street car. You can see that we’ve fitted another black strip beneath the regular windscreen strip: we won’t know whether we’ve got the width (depth) of it right until the sun starts to dip in qualifying.”



Regarding the materials used on the Ferrari, there’s a simple rule in GT2: “Anything removable can be made out of an alternate material – so for example we’ve got the carbon fenders (wings) and bonnet.

“We’re running the air con. system here, and it’s the regular street system – so that’s a compressor driven off the engine. We get to use restrictors that are 0.3 mm bigger. Do they make a difference? Yes, a slight one, probably in single figures in terms of horsepower.

”We’ll try to use the system as little as possible, because it does use engine power. The drivers will also have a thermal electric helmet cooler. We’re happy not to use the cool suit system: at Sebring last year (2006), melting ice leaked onto the electrics…..”

We’ve gradually worked our way to the front of the car, and this is where Rick Mayer really gets into some detail.

“Notice that we’ve got brake cooling from the standard nostril beside the headlamp, and air is also drawn in from behind the radiator, where it picks up some pressure. Yes, it’s warmer air off the back of the radiator, but the air coming off the rad. is probably at 40 to 50 degrees C, while the disc is at 500 to 600 degrees.
http://www.slotracinglemans.com/images/liveries/f430_risi9904.jpg

http://www.slotracinglemans.com/images/liveries/f430_risi9905.jpg
“The green, orange and red paint on the discs gives us a really accurate guide to brake temperature. The paint turns white when the disc consistently reaches the temperature appropriate to that colour, but the discs are ‘probed’ at pit stops too. If the temperatures are too high or too low, the wear is excessive.

“At Sebring last year, when we were just starting out with the 430, we had to change the pads twice during the race. This year, as you know, Jaime had the left front down to the metal backplate with a few minutes of the race remaining – so we didn’t quite get the wear characteristics spot on, but on the Ferrari, there’s nowhere to add more brake ducting. The pads we’re using this year are significantly different. They’ve got less initial bite, but they’ve got more material in them, and more ceramic, so they release better than the pads we used in 2006. The drivers may not like the feeling of less bite initially, but overall they’re in favour of them.”

Rick Mayer performs more than one role in North American GT racing: he’s also the race engineer on the Bill Auberlen / Matthew Alhadeff, Segalsport Riley BMW.

“The GT2 Ferrari has less downforce than a DP, but the GT2 car’s tyres are more efficient – they’ve therefore got more grip, even though they’re smaller (than on a DP). Because they’re smaller, the brakes on the 430 are smaller than on the DP, but overall there’s more braking effect on the Ferrari – but nowhere to add more ducting. So brakes on a GT2 car are a constant concern.”

If the brakes can be a worry, simply because the race car is very much adapted from the street car, then the suspension’s origins create more problems for the engineers.

“The street car has a lot of anti-dive and anti-squat. It runs soft springs (for bumpy roads), plus a still roll bar to make it handle better on faster corners.

http://www.slotracinglemans.com/images/liveries/f430_risi9906.jpg
“With the GT2 car, you’re compromised by the amount the regulations allow you to move the suspension mounting points (20 mm). Then there’s the 50 mm minimum ride height – compared to the road car which will be between six and nine inches. The production car’s roll centres are designed around the road car’s ride height: as soon as you drop it lower, the angles of the wishbones move into a whole area that wasn’t part of the design. Because you can’t move the mounting points (very much), you have to control the suspension with (even stiffer) springs.”

Avid followers of the ALMS (and GT2 in particular) will remember that the then new Risi Competizione Ferrari 430 had ‘issues’ with getting the wheels off at pit stops at Sebring last year – a problem that was repeated with another team’s entry at Le Mans a year ago.


“Part of the solution is the steel wheel nuts you see here. Steel is more durable than the ‘stock’ aluminium parts supplied with the GT2 car. But although the aluminium gets worn out, they are quite cheap to replace.

“Moving round to the front, the water radiators are different to the street car items. They’re a simple, rectangular shape on the street car, but the race car has an angled design, to get more area for cooling.

“Beneath the radiators, as part of the front splitter, you’ll see there are small tunnels ahead of the front wheels. But for Le Mans, we use blockers to fill them in, to reduce downforce, which is balanced by less rear wing. We haven’t tried the car with the blockers yet, but others have.

http://www.slotracinglemans.com/images/liveries/f430_risi9907.jpg
"The road car actually has tunnels at the rear, but we have to use the flat floor (ahead of the inclined plane). It’s the same front splitter that we use in the ALMS.

“The blockers make the car more pitch sensitive, so we have to be careful with ride heights.

“We’ve got two pairs of extra lights at the front for Le Mans, and the angles of the lights will have been set up using data from the past here, to pick out the apex of the corners for example. We get a chance to test everything tomorrow, and we’ve still got time to make changes before qualifying.”

http://www.slotracinglemans.com/images/liveries/f430_risi9908.jpg

http://www.slotracinglemans.com/images/liveries/f430_risi9909.jpg
So, with the test day out of the way, did any nasty surprises crop up Rick?

“No issues, the car actually was pretty good out of the box (off the truck or off the lorrry as you would say). But at Le Mans, 8 hours really isn’t much time at 15 laps an hour plus change time, you don’t get many laps. We evaluated our tire options and worked on a list of test items and got all the drivers some seat time. To evaluate tires you have to at least run a full stint on them, or you don’t know where they’ll go. Ideally you would like to do most of the laps consecutive. It’s always hard when you have three drivers, inevitably they all want something different. If you continue to change the car with each driver, by the time the 1st driver is back in it may not be to his liking. Luckily all three drivers do prefer the same setup and they all seemed OK with the progress and directions we went.”
http://www.slotracinglemans.com/images/liveries/f430_risi9910.jpg
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Big Al





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posted on 8-6-2007 at 07:35 Reply With Quote


:holy

Thanks T.

Update. I picked up some Carbon Fibre, and a new Resin, gives me 8 - 10 minutes of Potlife.. :bounc:
Threw a test body together last night, and out the mould in around an hour, just to see the detail's all ok etc.. The mould is perfect.. All the details is there, no bubbles etc, even the finds on the nose are cool..

So, going to buy two PAR 38 red bulbs this weekend, and rig up a temp "heater", which I'll suspend above the mould.. Then will throw a new body with the Carbon strips here and there, and going to leave to cure under the lights (heat) for 24 hours. Tech sheet say max strength is achieved after 25" C bake for 16 - 20 hours... So it should come out the mould rock hard, and strong.. Then a little cleanup of the flashing, cut out windows, brind smooth the inside, and it'll be done..

I'll post some pics this weekend.

:coke:

Big Al
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Amoslot-Michael





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posted on 25-6-2007 at 14:00 Reply With Quote


HEy everybody

now i have made my F430
Take a look.

I buld this Car for my Son.


http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/1253/cimg1160wh4.th.jpg

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/7635/cimg1161bv0.th.jpg




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